Wednesday, June 4, 2025

A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF WILLIAMS ARIZONA: REFERENCES

 

An overview of Williams Arizona, circa 1930s. In the distance is the mill site. 
Williams is located in the center, The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe 
rail yard and servicing facilities is located near the bottom.
All Historic Photographs in this section, unless otherwise noted, are from the 
Arizona Memory Project: Williams, Arizona Collection. A copy of the original scans
are available at the Williams Historic Photo Project, located in Williams, Arizona.

 A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF WILLIAMS ARIZONA: AS IT RELATES TO THE FOUNDING OF THE TOWN, AND THE SAGINAW LUMBER COMPANY 

(All rights reserved. Please contact me if you have any comments or suggestions. Remember, this is a brief history. If you want to know specific tidbits of historical information, please browse the library of posts to this blog.)


The earliest occupants of the northern area of Arizona were the Hopi, Navajo and Apache peoples. The Spanish were the first Europeans to venture into this vast area, with hopes of golden cities. On one of his expeditions, the Grand Canyon was viewed by Garcia Lopez de Cardenas in 1540 (Roberts, 62.) Although awed by the vast beauty of the canyon, the Spanish were more pragmatic; they were after riches in gold and silver, not the enrichment of the soul and spirit that is inspired from such a panoramic view. The Nation of Mexico, once separated from the Spanish Crown, sent expeditions as far north as Utah.
Despite these early efforts, the high country of northern Arizona was little understood or appreciated by outsiders until the mid-1800s. It took the Mountain Men, those independent-minded trappers and wanderers of the uncharted western frontier, to venture forth and begin to chart this wilderness. These adventurers, as well as the original people who occupied and thus owned the area, had the mental capacity to map and identify key features, recall important locations, and navigate without written documents.
One such Mountain Man was old Bill Williams, who ventured into the area seeking wealth by trapping animals for the fur trade. An over-abundance of curiosity and a sense of bravado spurred him on to many adventures while exploring the area. He is well-remembered, having numerous landmarks and features bequeathed with his name. He and other Mountain Men provided invaluable knowledge for the first Anglo-American expeditions into the region. 
The United States Government authorized the exploration of the western frontier by the U.S. Corps of Topographical Engineers. They were tasked with providing several practical railroads surveys and establish wagon roads to California. In 1851, Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves completed a reconnaissance of the San Francisco Mountains (North of current Flagstaff, AZ.), and the area of Bill Williams Peak (South of Williams, AZ). The subsequent report was a "snapshot," a short documentation of the region. This further expanded the written knowledge of the area, benefiting future expeditions (Fuchs, 15: Goetzmann 244-246.)
Lieutenant Amiel Weeks Whipple assembled another expedition in July 1853 at Fort Smith, Arkansas. This expedition was tasked to explore and survey a railroad route along the 35th parallel, with special attention to the area between the Zuni villages and the Colorado River (Fuchs, 17; Goetzmann, 287-289.) 
In 1857, Lieutenant Edward Fitzgerald Beale embarked on a survey and construction expedition of the wagon road that would later carry his name. Starting at Fort Smith, Arkansas, the survey and road traveled 1240 miles, to the Colorado River. One notable event was the use of camels to help transport their equipment. The road would become an artery allowing thousands of immigrants to travel to California, workers to the mines in Southern Arizona, and the movement of vast herds of sheep into the Williams area. 
Passing north of Williams, the road generally followed one spring to the other, through the North Country. Years later, the North Chalender Line of the Saginaw and Manistee Railroad crossed its' path in the Spring Valley area. By the time that the railroad grade was built in 1902, the Beale Road had fallen into disuse. It is easy to imagine that the loggers had grazed their horses where camels once trod, camping on the same ground where the early explorers had slept (Fuchs, 19.)
The Bill Williams Mountain area remained relatively untraveled until the 1870s. Those who did remarked on the lush grass and tall timber growing in abundance (Fuchs, 26,27.) The 85-mile Overland Road, stretching from early Flagstaff to the Fort Whipple-Prescott area passed to the south of the mountain. In use from 1863-1882, the road was originally used by the military. From the mid-1870s until the early 1900s, large herds of sheep and cattle traversed the trail in the summer to the cool mountain meadows, grazing and fattening upon the abundant grass in the high country (Fuchs, 85.) This same road, by that time mostly abandoned, would later play an important role in the building of the Saginaw Southern Railroad.

Williams Historic Photo Project 


The townsite of Williams, Arizona began as a post office (June 14, 1881) on the surveyed grade of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad (the 35th parallel survey route.) The town also served as a construction camp for the building of the railroad (Stein, VI; Fuchs 32, 34.) Ranching and the construction of the A&P Railroad played a major role in the town's early history. The town was located on the ranch of C.T. Rogers, possibly one of the first settlers in the area, having arrived in 1877.
With the building of the western section of the A&P Railroad from California, while the other half built west towards Flagstaff, the lumber and timber companies began to take an interest in the vast Ponderosa Pine forests. The first mill sites, mostly portable operations, were established in 1882, producing volumes of ties for railroad construction.
Early Williams, circa 1890. Population 200


Several merchants established stores, either on speculation of future growth or to service the existing construction camp and residents. Early photographs record a mixture of wooden structures, large tents and stone buildings. These were built along what would become Railroad Avenue, facing the expanding rail yard.  Two stage lines served the region, including this up-and-coming town of Williams (Fuchs, 61.) 
     For a time, Williams was overshadowed by Simms- the construction camp and town located at the Johnson Canyon Tunnel site. Once the A&P had completed that project, the denizens of the town either followed the construction to Williams or drifted elsewhere. 
The roadbed of the Atlantic and Pacific arrived in Williams in April 1882 (Fuchs, 56.) With the coming of the railroad came temporary freight and passenger facilities. A permanent station came in the 1900s; a freight station in August 1901 (Fuchs 116,196.)  A railroad sponsored eating house was opened in 1883. Fred Harvey, a well-known provider of quality meals and service, established a welcomed presence circa 1887 (Fuchs, 98.)
With the railroad facilities, having a post office, the connecting stage lines, and a developing merchant's row, the town was developing the air of permanence. With permanence comes investment, with the hope of future prosperity.  Civilization was advanced with the establishment of a school (1882). Church services were provided by circuit preachers starting in 1883. The population varied in the 1880s. The census of 1890 documented 199 persons residing in town- although this may not take into account the transient railroad laborers, saloon workers, or the outlying ranches and farms in the region (Fuchs, 58, 99,102.).
As with all frontier towns with hopes of becoming the next metropolis, wood and canvas construction brought the fear of fire. Williams would always face an imminent shortage of water to fight the fires and to slack the thirst of a growing community. It became feast or famine; the feast of fires on dry wooden structures; the famine of water to quench the devouring beast. The report on one such fire in July 1884, reveals that Williams had several mercantile, a drug store, a hotel and restaurant, and the ever-present plethora of saloons. Due to the ever-growing demand for water, the railroad began drilling wells as early as 1886. A railroad sponsored dam was built 1887 (Fuchs 70, 79,82.) 
Early High School, circa 1910. Building burned down.
 It must have been a remarkable edifice of learning

The Cabinet Saloon, now an Italian Bistro. Just left of the picture is a house of ill-repute.
In the Background is the Grand Canyon Hotel. Circa 1890. All three buildings still stand

The main street, known as Old Trails Highway, circa 1917. 
Later it would become Route 66

July fourth celebrations, 1909. 


From 1884-1886 The A&P Railroad moved the division point to Peach Springs, AZ, causing a slump in prosperity (Peach Springs, still in existence to this day, was the source of clean water for many years for the railroad and the town of Williams.) In 1890, the town rebounded with the return of the division point. In 1901 a branch line was built to the Grand Canyon, spurring the expansion of the railroad maintenance facilities in Williams. Grazing, ranching, farming and the railroad were the underpinnings of the local economy, until the day that the lumber mill was built. (Fuchs 78, 81, 83.) 
In April 1893, The Saginaw Lumber Company, of Saginaw, Michigan began building a large permanent mill, just west of the Williams township. A contingent of company employees relocated from Saginaw, Michigan. One source indicated that a large number had already arrived, with another 23 families on the way. All of the related facilities to support the mill and the employees were prudently built on the mill property (see chapter on the Saginaw Williams Mill; Fuchs 109,111.)
Like most growing townships, the leading citizens (modest in number) wanted Williams to become incorporated as a city. With incorporation came the official trappings of government: a town council; a city clerk and marshal; and the contentious issue of taxation. The first attempt at incorporation took place in October 1895. By December it was nullified in court. Some surmise that the burdens of taxes and licensing fees, and some degree of meddling by the lumber company, fomented the court action to nullify the charter (Fuchs, 125.)
As earlier noted, the Saginaw Lumber Company had shrewdly built all of their facilities, including employee housing, on company property. When the town was reincorporated in 1901, all of the mill property- and related facilities- were excluded from the city limits, thus eliminating city taxation (Fuchs, 128,129.) This was possibly one of the earliest examples in the Arizona Territory of tax breaks for corporate investments.
In December 1893 an experimental telephone line was strung from Flagstaff to Williams. In 1894 a permanent line was made between the Williams Depot and the main mill. In July of 1897, a connection was made between the offices of J.M. Dennis Lumber Company in Williams, and their sawmill located 8 miles east at Walker. A long-distance line to the outside world was completed in September 1901 (Fuchs, 145,179.)
    The principal industries in the early 1900s were: the livestock industry (sheep and cattle grazing): the lumber industry; and the Santa Fe Railroad. The latter built the shops necessary for a division point, further expanding operations once the Grand Canyon branch was opened.
    Mining had proved unprofitable; however, there was one rich lode of pay that was left virtually untapped: tourism. As early as 1902, new hotels, eating establishments and curios shops were developed. By 1930, in addition to the railroad's Harvey House and Fray Marcos Hotel (and the old but respectable Grand Canyon Hotel,) "There were two auto camps...several mountain resorts west of town, four or five service stations, three garages...the Button and Cherokee Hotels" were open for business (Fuchs, 258.)   
In 1929, the Great Depression began, eventually seeping into the daily lives of every citizen. Williams was not immune. The mill, at reduced production, continued to operate with occasional shutdowns (Fuchs 273.)   
In 1933, a company commissary was established at the mill. The local newspaper was sharp and pointed in response. This became a contentious issue with the city (see Mill Post.)
In March 1941, the Saginaw and Manistee leased and then purchased the Arizona Lumber and Timber Company in Flagstaff, AZ. At the start of 1942, it was obvious that the company was leaving Williams. In June of 1942, all production was ended. In September of 1944, the city purchased the old mill site, and both dams of the Saginaw and Manistee. The new high school and housing developments now occupy the former mill site (Fuchs 263, 264.)
Williams continued on through the lean and prosperous years. Eventually the tourism industry, with the revitalization of the Grand Canyon Railway, brought stability. Today, with the promise of new recreational activities, the steady growth of the housing market, and the cult-like following of old Route 66, hope endures that this once frontier town will remain for many years to come.

(Author's note; in researching this information, the author heavily relied upon the works of James Fuchs and Pat Stein. References are provided in the text, and it is not the intention of the author to plagiarize the works of others, and any oversight is purely unintentional. This is not a professional Blog, in the scholarly manner of these writers. Information and text will be updated if a reference or comment is not appropriately credited to an author.)

REFERENCES/ BIBLIOGRAPHY

PUBLISHED BOOKS

Ferrell, Mallory Hope; "Nevada Central Sagebrush Narrow Gauge," 2010 Heinburger House Publishing Company, Forest Park, Illinois

Goetzmann, William H; Army Exploration of the West, 1803-1863; 1959, Yale University Press; University of Nebraska Press 1979

Richmond, Al;  The Story of the Grand Canyon Railway, Revised Edition, 1995. Northland Graphics

Roberts, David; The Pueblo Revolt: The Secret Rebellion that Drove the Spaniards out of the Southwest; 2004, Simon and Schuster, Rockefeller Center, N.Y.

Schuppert, Thomas; Central Arizona Railroad and the Railroads of Arizona's Central Timber Region; 1993; Golden West Books, San Marino, CA.

Wahmann, Russel; Verde Valley Railroads, Second printing; August 1984, Starlight Publishing, Cottonwood, Arizona 86326

OTHER PUBLICATIONS AND DOCUMENTS 

Arizona Lumber and Timber Company, 1887-1983; NAU Cline Library Special Collections NAU. MS.266 NAU PH676

Fuchs, James R. A History of Williams, Arizona 1876-1951; University of Arizona,1953. Internet PDF version available on-line.

Glover, Vernon J., A Brief History of the Logging Railroads of the Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company, Kaibab and Coconino National Forests, Arizona (NAU Cline Library,Special Collections HE 3695.A62 G568. 1983)

Glover, Vernon J. Map Collections; and Archives Department, NAU Cline Library, Flagstaff, AZ. 1965 (Internet PDF available on-line.) 

Brochure: Beale wagon road Historic Trail; USDA, RG-R3-07-5. 2013 

Report on Proposed RR From Williams, MS 266 Series 3, Box 16 #140 1921:NAU Cline Library, Special Collections.

The LumberJack, Volume 1. December 1923 #8. A publication of the Safety and Welfare Committee, Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Co., Williams, AZ.

The LumberJack, Volume 1. May 1923 #1. A publication of the Safety and Welfare Committee, Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Co., Williams, AZ.

Stein, Pat; Logging Railroads of the Coconino and Kaibab National Forests; Supplemental Report to a National Register of Historic Places Multiple Property Documentation Form; SWCA Inc., Environmental Consultants, Flagstaff, AZ. SWCS Archeological Report Number 93-16; February, April 1993. On file with Coconino, Kaibab National Forests. PDF available on-line

 Stein, Pat; Cultural Resources Management; Logging Railroads of the Coconino and Kaibab National Forests; Report Number 19, United States Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. July 2006 

Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Collection: MS 314, Box 1; MS 84, Box 12 of 15, 16th Annual report-1936; December 25, 1932 Report; Box 12, folder 438; Box 15, Taxes and Insurance, Audit Report for September 1, 1929 to August 1, 1930 (C.E. Siddall); Folders 518,519.  

MAPS

The Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company, Map to Accompany Forest Industries Schedule, for year ending December 31, 1929: NAU Special Collections

Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Collection, 1893-1951; NAU Cline Library Special Collections NAU.MS.84

 S. Sales Kaibab (South End Unit) Map 7/30/35; NAU Map 522; NAU Special Collections. 

Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company, Forest Industries Schedule, Maps dated 1925, 1928 and 1929; NAU Special Collections 

Williams Station Plat, Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Company Coastlines: June 30, 1915

WEBSITES    

ArizonaRailsRuinsTrails.Blogspot.com Arizona rails, ruins, and trails; December 2008-February 2018.  

AZ.StateParks.com/Historic-Trails-of-Arizona; Overland Road

Arizona Memory project: Williams, Arizona Collection. Original scans available at the Williams Historic Photo Project, Williams, AZ. (AZMemory.AZlibrary.gov) 

(Images from Williams, Arizona Sanford Fire Insurance Maps:

 Library of Congress, Geography and Map Division)

Williams News August 10, 1902; Arizona State Library, Archives and Public Records; Phoenix, AZ.

Williams News microfilm reel, August 10, 1901 page 2 Image 2-Chronicling America Library of Congress


MUSEUMS

Collier Logging Museum, Collier Memorial State Park, Oregon. Oregonstateparks.org

Arizona Historical Society-Pioneer Museum, Flagstaff, Arizona. arizonahistoricalsociety.org 


WILLIAMS ARIZONA HISTORICAL MAPS: A WALK-THROUGH TIME

 WILLIAMS ARIZONA HISTORICAL MAPS: A WALK-THROUGH TIME 

COPYRIGHT; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED (5/10/22)

(All Maps in this section, unless otherwise noted; Williams, Arizona Sanford Insurance Maps; Library of Congress, Geography and Map Division)
    The town of Williams is one of those communities that just seems to grow on a person. It is a great place to visit, spend a few days in the many comfortable and affordable hotels, walk the downtown area, or just take a stroll through the neighborhoods. The variety of architecture is remarkable. There are numerous shops to explore and finding those items you've been looking for.  After a day of exploration, there are restaurants to meet the tastes of any hungry visitor. All this, just in the downtown area. Recreation abounds in the nearby region; however, our focus today is on the town's history through time.  
    Williams is blessed to have a compressed downtown area, easily walked on a nice day. The town buildings are well-documented in the Sanford Insurance Maps, dating from 1892-1943. These detailed, hand-drafted maps were made for insurance purposes, specifically in establishing fire insurance rates. Today, they provide a wealth of information as to the growth and development of the community. 

1892

 

 The 1892 maps show the township has been platted and established; streets are laid-out in the grid-like pattern of early townsites. Names and numbers have been assigned; civilization can now begin to take root. Map 1 shows the beginnings of the business district along Railroad Avenue, which parallels the tracks of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. The saloons and houses of ill-repute are springing up along the avenue, particularly at Second Street. The Grand Canyon Hotel has been built on the corner of Second and Bill Williams Avenue.   
    Not to be outdone by the saloons, businesses have begun along both Railroad and Bill Williams Avenues. At first planted in canvas tents, they soon gave way to wooden structures. This would soon draw the menacing glowing figure of fire, which was the nemesis of early towns. 
    The Methodist Church was established on Sherman Avenue and Second Street, just a block from the school located on Second and Sheridan. Both would see the town grow through the decades; the school building would burn and be rebuilt, then once again be reborn as a new structure. The church building would be like a solid rock, standing firm as a beacon of hope and salvation through whatever may come. 
  
Methodist Church, 2022


Williams School
The building was enlarged in 1906, burned down in 1912.
 

It was rebuilt and enlarged through the 1930s,
and was expanded with two wings. 
The High School was relocated to a new facility that was
 built on former Saginaw Mill property.
In 2022, this building is now an apartment complex.

 
    
1901

 
                                  Map 1                                                                 Map 2

 
                                   Map 3                                                                Map 4
       The 1901 maps show a marked change in the character of Williams. The business district had grown, and more permanent structures made of stone, brick and mortar were built. This was a result of the fires occurring in 1895; the flaming specter was once again poised to strike. Fires would sweep the town twice again, causing alarming and costly damage. The pictures of a smoldering apocalypse emblazoned the pages of The Williams News. The newspaper did not escape unscathed, as whatever parchment or paper were employed to print the news. Like most of the businesses that were destroyed, they relocated to another site and kept pressing ink to paper, keeping the citizens informed.         What can be gleaned from the pages that document those dark days, was the resolve of a once thriving town to restock, replenish, build again and prosper to even greater things than before. This time brick and mortar was to be the building material of choice. Resolute merchants decided to stay the course; normalcy would once again return.
    In 1901 the town was legally incorporated. With that came the usual trappings of a new metropolis: a town marshal, a health and fire marshal, and the plethora of new ordinances. These included changes to the way prostitution and gambling would be observed- taxed and regulated, not banished.
    This affected the area of Grand Canyon Boulevard, and Second Street, and as can be seen by Map 1, they enjoyed a very profitable and active business dispensing the pleasures of the flesh.

THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT  
                                   

        The town council decided to address the problem of prostitution and gambling by constraining such business to a designated district and profiting from the activities by licensing and taxing the businesses. This was in the area of Railroad Avenue and Second Street. Legalized prostitution became the norm in this district, until 1910 when it was repealed. The problem became worse, and once again it was legalized and regulated until World War One. The War Department, in the name of protecting the morality of the soldiers, in 1918 banned prostitution on a national level. 
    Along with brothels and prostitution, gambling and saloons were restricted to this area. At this time, some fourteen saloons, often dispensers of other entertainment, existed in Williams. Several notable buildings still exist from this era. One of these establishments was known as the first legally licensed brothel in the State of Arizona. If you get a first place in something, put the trophy on display.

THE CABINET SALOON AND TETZLAFF BUILDINGS 

The historic structures are located on the corner Grand Canyon Ave. and Second Street. 

The Cabinet Saloon, now known as The Red Garter Historic Inn. 
You can stay at the Inn.
The restaurant is Anna's Place, Grand Canyon Cafe. 
It is an authentic local place to eat great food. 
Plaque reads:
"The Cabinet Saloon
Built 1893
Has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places by the United States Department of the Interior. The Cabinet Saloon was a boisterous spot along "saloon row." Here railroaders, cowboys, loggers, and rowdy local residents came to spend their paychecks in saloons, gambling houses, opium dens, and houses of ill repute. In the last 100 years, various owners altered much of the Cabinet Saloon's unique character. In 1993, the building underwent a major renovation, earning it the 1994 Arizona Main Street Historic Design Award."


"Only slightly haunted." Passersby tell the tale of seeing the specter of a woman clad in red, who's velvet dress and flowing scarf beckon to the weary traveler; her alluring charms drawing another patron into the seductive web she has spun.   


The Tetzlaff Building, now known as the Historic Brewing Company (2022)




The plaque reads:
"Tetzlaff Building
    This Victorian -Romanesque style building, designed as a saloon and bordello was built in 1897 by German Tailor August Tetzlaff. Offering female company in eight cribs and an elegant parlor, it also boasted a two-story outhouse. Whisky, pool tables and poker games provided entertainment on the ground floor, as did the Chinese Restaurant and opium den located at the back of the building. This brick building stopped the devastating 1901 and 1903 fires that burned down all of "saloon row" to the east. It is now on the National Register of Historic Places."

THE WILLIAMS DEPOT AND VISITOR CENTER

    Diagonally, across the street, is the Williams Visitor Center. This structure, as indicated on the left side of Map 1, was originally located directly across the tracks from Second Street. The building was the original passenger station, built in 1901, on the Atlantic and Pacific, latr Santa Fe Railroad. The City of Williams had petitioned the Santa Fe to place a vehicle crossing on the tracks at Third Street. They countered with the offer of placing it on Second Street, to which the city agreed. This meant that the station had to be moved to its current location in 1904. This also meant that the main north entry to the downtown area directly passed the red-light district. 

    It became a freight depot after the move. The old depot remained abandoned for some time, until a group of dedicated volunteers restored the depot, becoming the Visitor Center. In addition to being a historic building in its own right, the center offers travel information by a friendly and well-informed staff. A small but well-designed museum provides the visitor with a glimpse into the history of Williams.
THE GRAND CANYON HOTEL 
    One block south on second Street, at the corner of Bill Williams Avenue, is the Grand Canyon Hotel. This hotel was once the premier place to stay in Williams. 




"Grand Canyon Hotel
Built in 1892 by Samuel E. Patton for Cormick E. Boyce known as 'The man who built Williams." With its own water supply, it was the only surviving building of the 1895 fire. First class hotel designed to appeal to travelers to the Grand Canyon. Ground floor had many uses- drug store, grocery store, dance hall, and Knights of Pythias meeting hall."  

Cormick E. Boyce, also known as C.E. Boyce, was well known as 'The man who built Williams." He had his hand in just about every building project in Williams. His foresight and dedication helped lay the groundwork for the town we know today.


Side view of the Hotel.


Rear view of the Hotel. Note the covered skylight features on the roof. The tall brick chimney was a possible later addition. The hotel laundry was located in the alleyway. The attached restaurant to the hotel had a separate liquor room.
    The hotel's water supply was provided by a well, located in the corner of Grant Avenue and Fourth Street. Water was lifted by a 10 H.P. pump. A water line was laid to the corner of Sherman Avenue and First Street. At this location were two tanks of 30,000-gallon capacity, with the upper tank at an elevation of 52 feet. The hotel was connected to the two tanks. The water supply was built by C.E. Boyce. Today, the two locations are private residences, with the well apparently still in operation.

    Diagonally across the street from the hotel, on the northwest corner, resides The Citizens Bank.

                                                            THE CITIZENS BANK


The plaque reads thus:
"CITIZENS BANK
This Neo-Classical Revival style building opened with much fanfare on Armistice Day, November 11, 1918. The bank was the financial center of the lumber, ranching and railroad operations in the area until it closed in 1958. The extensive Terra Cotta detail is found only on this building."
    The Bank is a beautiful building, built to impress the populace. For a bank, it is a relatively small structure. It now hosts a Jewelry Store, with one of the finest collections of gemstone jewelry in the area.
THE POLSON BROTHERS BUILDING

    This handsome, solid building is located on the Northeast corner of Bill Williams Avenue 
and Third Street. This edifice is the Polson Brothers Building, built in 1895. It boasts a rough-cut stone first floor, and a red brick second story. All of the doorways and window arches are hand laid stone. A very attractive and intricate example of this type of building construction.
    The Map indicates that on the corner was a bank, with a drugstore and general store on the right. Located on the westside was the entrance to the Telephone Office and Exchange. This building was built in response to the mass destruction caused by fires. 
     

The West facade. The center door was the Telephone Office and Exchange.

Close-up of the doorway.


    Close up view of the stone construction. The former bank is now home to Open Road Cowboy store. A fine shop specializing in custom, authentic leather western wear. To the west along the avenue is Western Outfitters and De Berge's Saddlery, another fine store that specializes in modern western wear. Both establishments feature on-site workshops, viewable by the customer. 

     The Williams Electric Light and Power Company was located on the southeast corner of 6th Street and Bill Williams Ave. The plant was built by J.C. Brown, Manager at the Saginaw Mill; and C.E. Boyce, known as the "Builder of Williams." The plant was sold on November 1, 1899, to Prince A. Mellick and John Walsh, renaming it the Grand Canyon Electric Light and Power Company (Fuchs, 129, 130.)  The site is now occupied by a parking lot and the town's Dairy Queen. (A more in-depth examination of the trials and travails of providing electricity to the Mill and the City of Williams is addressed in a separate chapter.)

THE WILLIAMS BREWING COMPANY BOTTLING WORKS

    



                            (Sanford Maps 1898,1901.) The brewery was owned by Mr. A.M. Conrad. 
    What western town is not complete without a brewery?  This was located just north of the Saginaw and Manistee Planing Mill, on the west-end of town. Little is known about this facility. It is possible that it became one of the legendary dispensers of local beer and relocated to another site north of the Atlantic and Pacific tracks. Towns of this era would have welcomed such an establishment, since there was a great demand for beer in the nearby saloons. The bottling works could also have been used to capture in a bottle other alcoholic spirits, or beverages more suitable for non-alcoholic tastes. The site is now covered by an interchange with Route 66.

THE LOMBARD, GOOD AND COMPANY SMELTER



    In the lower left-hand corner of Map 3 is an illustration of The Lombard, Good and Company Smelter.  Notation on map reads: "Located 3/4-mile east of RR Depot. Not in operation Oct. 1901. Iron roofs. Whitewashed inside- water to be supplied from R.R. water supply to a tank to be located on a hill south of plant."
    The plant was located on a hillside, with the railroad tracks (mainline and spur?) on the southside of the building. This would mean the plant building was facing to the north. The main structure included the bin building and a furnace in the northwest corner. A basement was indicated on the east side. Other machinery is not identified in the structure. To the south of the building, between two tracks, was the crusher, used to pulverize the ore.
    The mill was completed June 1898, and the first load of ore was delivered in July. It is questionable if the mill actually processed any ore, other than some test material. The company had an agreement with the Atlantic and Pacific to provide water to the mill, however the pipeline was damaged beyond repair. Rumors of sabotage abounded- whispered about town.  
    Lombard, Good and Company were involved in the development of the Anita Mines, north of Williams, and south of the Grand Canyon. In order to supply the smelter, a railroad would have to be built. This same company, after acquiring the necessary funding, began building the Santa Fe and Grand Canyon Railway to the South Rim. 
    The ore proved to be of low grade from the mines, meaning there was a nominal amount of copper in the matrix. In short order, the mines played out, and construction of the railroad stopped in 1900. With this went the considerable investments made by the citizens of Williams, The Saginaw and Manistee, the J.M. Dennis Company (which had sizable timber assets and a profitable mill operation), as well as other investors. The Williams investment alone was over $200,000.  Later, in Federal Court, some of the funds were recovered (Fuchs, 142.) 
    Sources state that the mill was relocated to the Anita Mines district. One problem with this is that the mines are in an arid region, and as one knowledgeable sage of history once told the author, mills require a great deal of water. It is possible that the crusher mill, or stamp assembly, was moved to the location. Archeological evidence at the mines indicates some form of structure was in the area.
    As a result of the bankruptcy, the Santa Fe Railroad was able to buy the remaining assets and complete the building of the line to the Grand Canyon. In the archives of the Saginaw and Manistee Lumber Company, located at the Cline Library, NAU Flagstaff campus, is a document that states a sizable amount of used rail and accessories were bought from the company for use in the woods.
    The location of this site is now either covered by the overpass on the east end of Williams, or on railroad property. It is best to leave the site to history; do not trespass on private property. 

 
1910 Maps



     Map 2 does not yet illustrate the road crossing at Second Street; it will soon be built, allowing access to the area north of the tracks. The original station has been moved to its new location. The Santa Fe has built the new Harvey House along with the hotel, new station and restaurant. This not only provides for the passengers on the mainline, but those staying for a trip north on the Grand Canyon branch.
    The business district has grown. An "auto court" has been built on the block between Third and Fourth Streets, facing Bill Williams Avenue (this same structure exists today.)  Along the railroad tracks, large fuel supply and distribution companies have been established. The school has expanded, with the addition of two wings. The urban area to the south has filled-in with homes. 
    A sense of permanence, and of future prosperity shines upon the city.


WILLIAMS, ARIZONA; ADDITIONAL "WALK THROUGH TIME" BUILDINGS OF INTEREST

  WILLIAMS, ARIZONA; ADDITIONAL "WALK THROUGH TIME" BUILDINGS OF INTEREST

All images courtesy Arizona Memory project; Williams, Arizona Collection. Original scans available at the Williams Historic Photo Project, Williams, AZ. (AZMEMORY.AZLIBRARY.GOV)

Early picture of the first Catholic church in Williams. Everyone is dressed in their finest attire, and the occasion appears to be the celebration of establishing a Red Cross chapter at the church (the flag has a cross centered on a field of white; the women are dressed similar to a nursing uniform.) 

Caption states that this is the "World Famous Sultana Bar," from the 1920s. 

The Sultana Movie Theater, circa 1940s. The bar entrance was located around the corner, in the same building. These were the days before television and smart phones, where the theater was a place to watch the latest Hollywood releases, catch up on the world events via the newsreel shorts, and enjoy the antics of early animated cartoons. Theaters were a social place; take a date or meet friends or take the family for a night out. In those days soft drinks and various snacks were reasonably affordable. It was a bonus if the theater was air conditioned, often proudly advertised on the theater marque. 
The building still stands today; the bar is still active, and the theater is open on special occasions.


Saloon Row, aka red-light district, 1910(?)

The Cabinet Saloon, with the Grand Canyon Hotel in Background. Circa 1890s.




Caption on the image states that this is a Babbit-Polson Company wagon. The Babbit's and the Polson's were well-known merchants, ranchers and all-around entrepreneurs in the early years of Northern Arizona.  Ranches covered vast areas of land, and these holdings still have an impact on shaping the development of modern Arizona. Thankfully, some of these ranchers had the foresight to donate their landholdings to public trusts, where the land can be kept in perpetuity and allowed to return to a natural state. 
A large group of family members appears to be headed to some gathering of importance, judging by the fact that they are wearing their "Sunday's Best" attire. Without wagons there would not have been the westward expansion of the United States.  Wagons were the forerunners of the modern automobiles, the design of which having little changed for hundreds of years. Some of the earliest manufacturers of automobiles were wagon manufacturers of some importance, most notably Studebaker. In fact, the early automobiles were wagon designs modified with gasoline and battery powered propulsion (that's right, electric vehicles are not a 21st century invention.) The appearance was so similar to common wagon designs that the only difference was the missing horse. 

A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF WILLIAMS ARIZONA: REFERENCES

  An overview of Williams Arizona, circa 1930s. In the distance is the mill site.  Williams is located in the center, The Atchison, Topeka a...